1986 Germany, France, Switzerland, Austria Participants Nancy and Luther Hampton - Cindy (Nancy's sister) and her husband Bill Click images for larger views.

I know, I know, we haven't even started the trip yet but I couldn't stand it, I just got this book and I just HAD to write something in it! It makes me feel like the trip has started. You just don't KNOW how excited I am. I mean Cindy and I have talked about this since December almost every day! The trip couldn't be as good as the anticipation has been. Just for the record, this is the year of the terrorist and the Chernobyl nuclear accident.

June 12th - through June 13th

Departure day. There were thunderstorms. We were delayed boarding until about 7:30. We all got on. We heard no flights were leaving at all. All the radar in DC and Baltimore took multiple hits from lightening. We were sure we'd be canceled. One of the flight attendants said we would be. The captain kept coming on with updates. He said, "They were exploring all options". But suddenly we got clearance and took off. It was a good thing too because everyone either wanted a cigarette or was really hungry and were getting mutinous. I though a flight was going to break out. We took off 3 1/2 hours late.

We arrived in Frankfurt and deplaned, retrieved our luggage and off we went. There were soldiers with sub-machine guns in the airport!

We went to the rental counter and picked up our white BMW 520. I had a sunroof and was roomy front and back. We headed up the Rhine River. Cindy and Bill seemed to be enjoying themselves, taking in the new and different scenery. We stopped in Rudeshime for coffee. Luther had been studying German and was anxious to try out his skills. He managed to order 2 coffees and 2 beers.

The Rhine is very high with very fast moving water. We stopped to take some pictures of the ruined castle and vineyards. The sky was beautiful blue and it was warm, almost hot. We took the ferry across the river at St. Gore and went back to Aschenbach and then cut up the steep hill on a very twisty road to the plateau above. We saw 2 pretty bad accidents. People pass and expect the oncoming car to move over and the car being passed to move over leaving the middle open for him.

We arrived in Zell at about 6PM. It was a typical little Mosel River town. Our hotel was anything but typical. The Hotel Schloss Zell was built in the 1300s. We had seen a picture of it and I recognized it right in the center of town. It had dome shaped slate rooftops and lots of chimneys. There was a pretty garden in the front. There were cobblestones to park on and we were met by a very shy lady. She said the restaurant was closed but directed us to one down the street called the Bell Epoche. She then took us up a spiral staircase (covered in dull red indoor/outdoor carpet) to rooms 2 and 3. This place was decrepit. There was a king size bed which looked lumpy. On one end was an old bathroom with narrow deep tub. Then you had to cross the room to a round tower where the toilet was! There were even arrow windows in there. Next to that was a nice little balcony with a stony railing, flower boxes and grape vines. Two chairs and a table were out there. The rooms were furnished in flea market style. There were ancient tapestries on the rickety tables. It turned out the bed was very comfortable, the lumps were pretty pink flower duvet covered comforters. The rooms were a bit chilly as the whole place was stone. Cindy and Bill didn't have a balcony but it was similar.

We walked through Zell which was cute and quaint to the Belle Epoche. We were the only people there. It was a pretty room with lacy curtains and rose-colored table clothes. The world cup was on - that's why no one was there.

For dinner Luther had oxtail soup, Bill had sorrel soup, I had goose liver in calvados and Cindy had duck pate. For entrees I had pork steak, Luther had wild chicken, Cindy and Bill had pork tenderloins in tarragon sauce. Over all I'd give it a 5. We were starved so ate it all but it wasn't great. For wine we had an 85 Zeller - a bit sour - and an 82 Meherer which was nice. Both were local Mosel wines. Dinner cost about $70 per couple.

We went for a walk. It was about 10PM with a beautiful sunset and warm. Then we were practically asleep on our feet so home to bed. We slept like logs.

Steep Mosel Vineyards

Zell street

Church

Bakerei

Schloss Zell

Schloss Zell Garden

June 14th

We rose at 7:30 and ran together. It was overcast but warm. We crossed the river on a footbridge. There were kids going to school (?) on Saturday. Back and showered we had breakfast. It was in the dining room. There were hard rolls, salami, honey that was solidified, jam, packaged cheese, coffee and orange juice. It was just adequate. We took a few pictures and bought some German brandy and a couple of bottles of Mosel wine and some cute, tacky glasses.

We checked out and were on our way. We rode down the Mosel. It was beautiful but clouded up when we reached the Alsace. The border people just waved us through. The countryside was typically French. There were trees in rows on the side of the road. It was just nice.

We wanted lunch but had waited too long. Everything was closed. At about 3:30 we arrived in Obernai and finally found a small restaurant that would give us beer and some ham and bread. It hit the spot but was quite an adventure getting it. Luther spoke a little German and so did they but just a little.

We continued on the wine road (route du vin). Finally we reached Ribeauville at about 5PM. We drove through the little narrow streets with shops and then through the gate of the city. It was a pretty big town. We knew the street name and had a picture postcard from the hotel but not anything else. Lucky for us they posted a little sign and we found them. Of course for $35.00 we weren't sure what we'd get. We were shown up to the Fredric-Georges room and the Ghost room. Cindy and Bill got the latter. They were really nice with twin beds pushed together and lovely puffy down comforters. They had oak furniture with a sofa, chair and huge wardrobe. We had 2 rooms, one with sofa and chair and nice beds. The baths were nice too. A pleasant surprise.

We went out directly for a walk and bought 2 bottles of Alsatian wine, 3 post cards, and a cookbook. We got back to our rooms at about 6:30 and agreed to meet at 7:30. While we rested the Cathedral bells began to ring. They rang on and on for about 30 minutes. There sounded like about 4 bells. The Cathedral was right next to the Hotel.

This was it! We set off for Auberge de l'Ill. It was our second visit to this esteemed Michelin 3 star restaurant and Cindy and Bill's first. It was about 6km away. We parked and went in. We were seated over on the river side of the room. Just as I remember it was beautiful. We had - me, foie gras in a bread loaf, Cindy salmon soufflŽ, Bill fillet of sole beautifully presented in a white sauce. Luther - terrine of smoked salmon. All great. I liked mine best. We had gotten the kir drink as an aperitif. Luther ordered a Burgundy which was enjoyable.

We had the entrees as follows: Luther, Bill and I had the veal medallions in sauce with champignons and truffles. Cindy had lamb in pastry with sauce. All great of course. We asked Serge, the Sommelier, to recommend another about the same price. We had a 78 Bordeaux which was wonderful. Big but ready to go.

Cindy and I had cheeses from the Chariot. Then she had créme brulee with peaches and I had gateaux with chocolate mousse - 2 wonderful chocolate cakes - mint and orange- and a scoop of mousse and 2 ice creams all in a puddle of sauce sprinkled with cocoa powder and powdered sugar - sigh.

Luther had an Armagnac. On the way out we bought menus that were watercolors by one of the Haberlin brothers - owners. We timed it right because Mssr Haberlin himself was there ad he autographed it for us. Cindy and Bill were very impressed with the whole experience.

Ribeauville hotel

Ribeauville gate

Our room

Auberge de l'Ill

Auberge de l'Ill

Me at Auberge de l'Ill

June 15th - Sunday

We rose at 7:15 to run. We opened the curtains to a beautiful blue sky. We ran around the town then through the center. It was a nice run.

We showered and listened again to the pretty bells as we readied for breakfast. We went outside and took some pictures and went to breakfast. It was a French breakfast. Coffee, bread, croissants and orange juice. We were in this tiny room with stone walls, floors and beams.

We loaded up our stuff and went outside of town for some pictures. Cindy and Bill in the grapes. I got Luther on the car. Then some pictures of the French countryside. We stopped in Illhausern to take pictures of the restaurant from last night.

Luther noticed the Maginot line from WWII. There was a bunker and museum which we toured. We crossed the Rhine at a hydroelectric dam. There were millions of cyclists there, everywhere you looked. We headed up into the Black Forest.

The Black Forest was beautiful. We went up a mountain called Kandel to about 3,500ft. The forest was very dark with tightly packed evergreens and meadows full of wild flowers.

We drove on down the mountain to a town called St. Peters. We had lunch at a pretty restaurant with outside tables. We had kalbsbraten, pommes frits and local bier. We sat on the terrace in the sun-dappled shade. It was really a perfect day. There was a cool breeze and quite hot temperatures.

We headed for Switzerland. At the boarder we ran into some trouble. A border guard asked some questions which Luther managed to answer. We bought a $15.00 vignette that allowed use to use the autobahns. We had difficulty changing our travelers checks and French Francs to Swiss Francs. We had needed gas and cash to pay for it. Bill took over as driver and we headed into Zurich.

We really didn't have too much trouble. We found our hotel which was right by the lake. Our rooms were ugly but have pretty lake views.

We walked around looking for a place to eat. It was very crowded. We noticed no Americans. We had run into a lady at the border who was American. She had given us 20 centimes to use the bathroom.

We decided to eat at Fischstube Zurichhoeren - a restaurant on pilings on the lake. It was quite nice and casual. We had a bottle of Swiss Riesling, Yvone 1985 which was really nice - dry and sweet at the same time. Then we had a bottle of Swiss Pinot Noir, also very nice. I was glad to sample some nice Swiss wines. We all had salad and then Luther, Cindy and Bill had salmon steak with herb butter and I had prawns in herbs and butter. It was a perfect evening weather-wise and a perfect location - on the water and we all got very mellow from the wine. We had a really good time.

We walked back to our hotel and moved the car. Up to our rooms for room brandy. We were all whipped and decided to hit the sack A beautiful but hot day.

Black Forest

Black Forest

Lake Zurich Promenade

Lake Zurich Promenade

Me at Auberge de l'Ill

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Extra Pictures

Zell street

Ribeauville

Auberge de l'Ill

Cindy at the Maginot Line

Swans Lake Zurich