1984 Luxembourg-Netherlands-Belgium-France
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Day 4 - Monday - May 21st
Today started bad. First, it was raining so I didn't run. Luther did.
We packed up and went for our rental car. It was very close. We got a little red Opel. We left at about 10:30 and got lost getting out of Bad Godesberg. Finally we got to the autobahn. It rained steadily most of the day. Next bad thing was a broken windshield wiper. Barely could see and Luther had to keep his head out the window which got very cold.
We stopped in Brugen Breche, a small town. We stopped at a Mercedes dealer who gestured and said Opel. We found the Opel dealer. One of the employees spoke a little English so with gestures we got them to look at it. They said they needed a part. The guy was so nice; he took us to a nice bar where we had sausages and beer. No one spoke any English but we managed to talk a very little with the bartender. It was very weird - he'd look right at me and talk and I had no idea what he was saying. First time that's ever happened.
Well after about 1 1/2 hours we were back on the road. It was just pouring rain the whole way to Amsterdam. I was an expert navigator for a change. We managed to find our hotel with no problem. It faces on the Herengracht canal right in the center of the city. Even though it was nasty and rainy it was pretty. Every other street is a canal with a road up one side and down the other. The Rembrandt Crest is 4 row houses connected together. They are old and our room was right at the top under the eaves. The door opened onto a set of curved steps up to our room. I really liked it. There was this giant wheel affair. Luther and I had a good time trying to figure out why it was there. It obviously was here before the room. I think it was a winch in the attic to move furniture up and down outside the building.
The hotel has all kinds of extras. It's very nice. There are a lot of English and Americans here. Tonight after dinner we had a drink in the lounge and everyone there was American.
We decided on a place for dinner called Dorrius based on the Michelin guide and Frommers. It was good but again, too American. The menu was in English. We had hunter's soup. I had lamb with asparagus. Luther had fish - assorted with buerre Blanc. All was mediocre. We had an Alsatian white wine which was good.
When we walked back (it was only 4 or 5 blocks) it had stopped raining. Here's hoping it clears tomorrow. I want to take some pictures. I got 2 with a super slow shutter speed - I don't know if they'll come out. Tomorrow I want to buy some delft tiles.
After dinner we had brandy in the hotel lounge.
Day 5 - Tuesday - May 22nd
Well at least it stopped raining but its still cold, windy, damp and gray. I've managed to get up this morning and run anyway. It was fun and a challenge to run on the little narrow traffic clogged streets and canals. I managed to twist my ankle but kept running. Now this evening it's gotten rather stiff and sore. I hope it gets no worse.
Before we left I went to Mr. Kramer on Spiegle Straat to buy a delft tile. Its circa 1725 and a very nice souvenir for me.
We drove through the flat, green Holland and I saw several windmills, even one that was turning. We entered Belgium. The northern people speak Flemish, sort of German and the Southern speak Walonish, sort of French. We got off on a very nice side road and drove through little towns. The people here seem prosperous.
We stopped at a tavern on the way through these towns to try the Belgian beer. Stella Artois. It was good. The people are nice and there was an entertaining old drunk there to watch.
We got to Brussels at about 3:30. Boy what a zoo! My maps weren't the greatest but I finally found our hotel. This is a fleabag! Well, maybe not quite that bad but it's not nice. There's a little lobby - the people speak only French. Off the lobby is a small restaurant which is only a step above diner. There's a lift to the upper floors just big enough for two. Our room has a sink, a too soft bed, a red and grey metal wardrobe (locker), and red curtains with a neon sign just outside which makes the room lurid at night. The bed has a fake wood headboard with built in fluorescent lighting. Hey how about that! Ick. Good we are only here one night.
After we got settled into our room we immediately went out to the Grand Place. It's an amazing collection of very ornate buildings all used to be white but are now crusty black with gold glinting through the grime sometimes. After a bit of searching we found the area in Brussels just near the Place that is just non-stop restaurants. On a nice day it's all street musicians, mimes and jugglers. We are going to go there for dinner tonight. Not sure which place yet. On our way back to the hotel I stopped off and bough some very pretty lace cloths as gifts for Mom and maybe Vicki.
We left for Rue de Bocheron to the Aus Arms de Bruxelles for dinner. It was very busy and crowded. We had the 750F menu which included soup (cream of parsley I think) I had mussels au gratin. Luther had turbo pâté and tiny frenched lamb chops. I had cheddar in puff pastry. For dessert we split a Belgian waffle flambé a la orange. Very good. We had a bottle of Haut Milon - it was nice.
There was an older couple sitting next to us. He was president of the Association of Brewers. They were very nice to talk to and were coming to the US in October and November. New York, Las Vegas, So. California and Chicago. We enjoyed our conversation. We walked homeward and stopped in a tavern for brandy (Luther) and I just had mineral water. No one is speaking much English but we are getting by OK!
 Grand Place |
 Infamous La Legend |
 La Legend receipt |
 Luther near the Grand Place |
 Manequin Pis |
Day 6 - Wednesday - May 23rd
Today has been exciting in more ways than one. This morning we arose (no running, my ankle has been very painful and the pavement here is all cobblestones) went down to the restaurant for a roll and icky coffee. I had read about the coffee near the Grand Place so we strolled over. It was great; I guess the best coffee I've ever had. Then we walked around and Luther checked out pipes in a tobacco shop. We went back to the hotel to check out (good riddance) and Luther went for the car while I stood by our luggage. He arrived with a car with a broken window. Someone had smashed it to steal what was inside which was nothing (luckily).
We called Hertz and managed to find the address. They gave us another car and we managed to get underway by noon.
We headed out of town and managed to see some of the prettier parts of town on the way. We headed south to Paris. The day was fine - blue sky and fluffy clouds. The scenery was extremely flat and very green. We got off the Autoroute after an abortive attempt to find a bank to change our travelers checks. We wanted to go through countryside. It was spectacular. Nice villages.
We found a country inn and had a porter beer. It was very attractive. I was very proud that I asked where the toilette was and managed to understand the directions.
Onward we went to Paris! We got back on the Autoroute and (having bought maps along the way) got
into the city. Boy what crowds. It was about 4 o'clock and bumper to bumper. Every street in
Paris is one way it seems, and it didn't help that our map was frequently wrong but we finally
got to the street near our hotel and parked. I was very apprehensive about the hotel
(after La Legend) but I was pleasantly surprised. The hotel is on a side street 1 block from
the Champs Élysées and about 2 blocks from the Arch de Triumphe. There was a pretty
lobby and friendly people at the desk. They told us we could park just across the street and block
a door that no one used. They would watch our car and we were assured no one would bother it. It
was true, free parking in Paris! We found our room. It overlooks the pretty interior garden which
is where breakfast is served. There are fluffy down comforters and a fully equipped bath with pretty
tile walls. It has a TV too. We were here for 4 nights.
We unpacked and went for a walk before dinner and had a drink at our first sidewalk
café on the Champs Élysées - Neat! Dinner this evening would be at Savy,
a bistro near the Seine within walking distance of our hotel. Our waiter was not so nice but we
managed to order. I had asparagus vinaigrette and roast chicken. Luther had Pâté and
roast chicken. We had café and Armagnac - very smooth. We walked back and went to the Arch de Triumphe. It was 11PM and the sidewalks were jammed. The city is relatively clean and so far the people are as nice as any city folks I've met. I am impressed and like it a lot. We passed the Lido and the Moulin Rouge. Not to our tastes. I'd rather go to a 3 star restaurant!
Extra Pictures
 House where Luther lived |
 Grand Place |
 Hotel Ayala courtyard Paris |
 Our Room |
 Brochure |