October 2
Up to another gorgeous day. Bright blue skies. We have a great arched window like in a church which looks right out on the Grand Canal - spectacular! We all had breakfast and caught up on our internet stuff and are preparing to go out.
We walked through the tiny streets, over bridges and canals to San Marco. The line was non existent as we were early so we entered the church - first the upper area where the horses are and a museum and you can go out and look over the square. While we were out there the little guys banged the bell for 10AM. And then the mighty bells in the campanilla rang out for a long time. I love bells.
Angel Piazza San Marco |
San Marco dome |
Looking down from San Marco |
Bronze horses |
Lion San Marco |
Grand canal from the Rialto bridge |
We went out and then entered the church. Unfortunately they were just getting ready for a mass so we could only see a small amount of the church which is really spectacular. The mosaics cover almost every surface including up in the dome and along all the alcoves
We headed over to the Doge Palace but the line was really long so we decided to wait until tomorrow. We walked over to check out the bridge of sighs but the buildings surrounding it were covered by enormous pieces of wood painted sky blue. I guess they are working on the buildings.
We walked over and were heading for the academia bridge. We had thought to go to the Guggenheim museum but everyone else really wanted to stay outside to enjoy the day. We stopped in a campo for a cup of coffee (right) and soft drinks and watched the people. Great fun.
As we crossed the Academia bridge we looked down the grand canal and saw and enormous cruise ship (right) negotiating it's way into the city. WOW it was HUGE. We went to find ai Gondolieri restaurant and lo and behold - I went right to it! It wasn't open yet so we thought we'd come back.
We headed over to the far side of the Dorsoduro to find the promenade along the water and were looking for our lunch restaurant recommended by Judit called La Piscine. It had lovely tables right outside by the canal (left). What a view! We started with white wine (I think a pino grigio) and ordered. I had mozzarella, tomato and arugula salad. We had a nice Ripassa Valpolucella with lunch. So pleasant sitting outside by the water. Lots to see. See the food!
We left and headed back to make dinner reservations then back to the ranch to rest. We all napped and then got up - opened the windows over looking the grand canal and watched the boat traffic. Very entertaining.
We headed to dinner at ai Gondolieri. Lovely evening. We found our way back with no trouble and were seated. The restaurant is quite small. It's a Michelin rated place so not cheap. I got wild mushrooms. All sorts. Very good. Bill got prosciutto with melon - I loved the way they kind of shaved the melon. Very sweet. For an entrée I got the Veal bits in sauce with peppers. Luther got the pork ribs which looked excellent. Bill got the venison which also looked excellent. I can't remember the rest. We had Cordero Montezemolo Barolo. Very nice. Brad got dessert. Some got grappa. All got expressi. A nice dinner. See the food!
Us at dinner at Al Gondolieri |
We walked back to our favorite wine bar and had another bottle of wine. (left). A fun evening
October 3
Another beautiful day. What luck with the weather. We decided to head over to San Marco to visit the Doge Palace. There was no line and we went right in. We toured the apartments of the Doges and the official rooms of state. The judgment rooms, the prison, the bridge of sighs, collections of armor, swords, pikes, rifles and had guns. Lots of warring going on.
Next we headed over to the train station. This entailed walking to the Rialto bridge and across the center of Venice. It was a quite long walk but it was a part of town I'd not been in before. We stopped for a cup of coffee in a campo along the way. We got to the station and waited in line for tickets. We were given a choice of getting the 10:37 train second class or the 1PM train first class. We opted for the early train. 459 euro later we left the station.
We walked into the Canareggio area of Venice. There were still tons of people. We wandered and looked for a lunch place. Everyone was in the mood for pizza. We found the Pizzaria Vesuvio which had nice shady outside tables. We all had different pizzas. They were all tasty. We had wine and expressi and then headed toward home. It was pleasant sitting outside and watching the people. We had two guitar players stop by and sing for tips. See the food!
We shopped on the way back. Sophie got another necklace and I bought a bracelet for my friend at work. We stopped by the Buon Ricordo restaurant near our house to see the menu and decided to go there for dinner. I am sure it will be fun and I'll get another plate.
We are back and everyone is resting and I'm catching up my journal. To nap now for a bit.
Dinner was fun. It was at Ristorante Fiaschetteria Toscana - a Buon Ricordo restaurant. We managed to get an outside table and the waiters were very nice and funny. We had some white and then a couple of red wines. Everyone was pretty much wined out and pretty tired after our long day of walking etc. Sophie and I got the tomato basil salad and Brad got the mixed salad. Cindy got the melon and prosciutto. Luther and Bill got the pasta fagioli. For entrees I got the Buon Ricordo signature dish of julienned vegetables and seafood lightly battered (like a tempura) and deep-fried. It was quite good and everyone got some tastes. Bill got the Chinina beef, Sophie and Cindy got pasta with tomato smoked cheese and basil. Brad had the pasta with white truffles. Luther got the duck. Brad had apple tart with vanilla ice cream and Sophie got tiny wild strawberries. I got my plate YAY! See the food!
Cindy before dinner |
Cindy in window of apartment |
Cindy and Bill at dinner |
Me before dinner |
My Buon Ricordo Plate |
October 4
Another nice day. We are up, breakfasted and packed. We plan to go buy sandwiches for lunch before we leave. We have a water taxi coming to pick us up at 9:30.
We walked down the street to a little shop with sandwiches and Sophie got 2 wraps, Cindy got 2 sandwiches and Luther and I got one sandwich to share. We put them in the cooler along with the 2 bottles of white left and the 1 red. Our water taxi came right on time but there was a trash boat and a delivery boat taking up all the space at the pier. So our taxi tied up next to the delivery boat and the boat guy passed the suitcases over to the taxi and helped us all cross his boat to get on the taxi. Pretty interesting.
We went down the Grand Canal for the last time and debarked at the train station. We went to track 3 and found our Eurostar train waiting there even though we were about an hour early. After some back and forth by Brad because he wasn't convinced that this was our train we all boarded and found our seats and stowed our luggage. Although we were supposed to be seated together Brad and Sophie were together and Cindy and Bill were together but Luther and I were two seats apart so Luther moved into a seat we didn't own. Later two Italian businessmen came and we could tell it was theirs but Luther explained and they switched with us.
We left right on time and it was the exact train we had come in on that went through Mestre, Padua, Bologna, Florence and then to Rome. Just before Florence we decided to have lunch. I got the cooler down, passed out the sandwiches and opened a white wine. BUT wait! Only 4 plastic glasses! At first we thought we could share but that was a non starter. I decided to go to the bar car for cups. Well it's all about timing and mine was off. As I was setting out the train began to slow for the Florence stop. Everyone got up and was retrieving luggage and putting it in the aisle. I tried to squish my way through for a while but inevitably I got stopped. I waited and we stopped. As everyone debarked I moved forward and then I decided it would be much faster to get off the train and walk down to our car which I did. Finally I got back and had my lunch.
We arrived on time in Rome at Termini station. We only had to go a few blocks so set off. We arrived about 10 minutes later after managing to negotiate the crazy Rome traffic.
Our apartment was just next to the British embassy backing to their grounds which were lovely. It had 4 bedrooms and 4 bathrooms with multiple beds. There was no real living room - a large room at the beginning had a dining table and a couple of chairs in front of a desk. There were TVs in all the bedrooms.
We immediately set out for the Coliseum (right and left). It was not too far - maybe a 20 minute walk thru crazy Rome traffic. We got there about 3:45 and were almost sucked into an expensive tour but went inside and found a cheaper tour. We signed up and set off. It was OK. I've had better tours. But it was interesting to see the Coliseum again.
We went to the subway stop and this was QUITE an experience. Every car was packed so tightly with the commuters (it was rush hours) we couldn't squeeze in. We finally moved to the very first car spot on the platform and managed to get into a car. This car stopped at two more stations getting more and more packed. We got off at our stop and Whew! We were glad. The car was very hot! We returned to our apartment after Luther and I bought 2 bottles of white with which to watch L'Eredita which was fun as always.
Our restaurant was Trimani and was a wine bar a couple of blocks away. We had a lovely meal there. Nice service. Nice wines. I had a mozzarella, tomato, arugula salad and the veal both of which were excellent. Luther and Bill had the filet which looked great. I can't remember what everyone else had but we all had a very good time. Of all the times I've eaten in Rome this was the best. I read later after we returned, in an article written by a chef, that the only place to eat in Rome was a wine bar and I'd agree. See the food!
We walked back and Luther went to the balcony for his cigar and we all finished off the last bottle of red. A nice last night.
October 5
Another great day. We rose early and got all packed up and left walking back to the Termini to catch the train to Fuimecino and the airport. It was quite the hike but we caught the train just before it left.
We arrived at the airport - found our terminal - went through security - Luther and I had our bag searched - passport control - took the bus to the gates - and finally stopped in a café for coffee and a pastry - Whew! Air travel is a pain.
Now I am high above Greenland winging my way home. It was a pretty nice trip.
Best and Worst of the trip
Best Lunch - La Grotta
Best dinner - Ai Gondolieri
Worst Restaurant experience - Al Madona (but it was not terrible)
Best Food - In our kitchen!
Worst Food - There was no bad food!
Best experience - Lunch with the Audets in Assisi
Worst experience - Rental car pickup and return
Nicest people - Louie and Deborah
Worst people - Lady at our apartment in Rome
Best accommodations - Casale di Mele
Best thing that I brought - The cooler - what a good idea by me!